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Luyten’s Delhi

Category : Communication, News and society, Travel content, Types of content

north block/south blockHaving dwelt acidically on the state of preparedness for the commonwealth games and the unabating optimism of the Indian, I would like to make some amends.

While the picture painted by me in the earlier posts is partly true, it is not the whole picture.  New Delhi is a beautiful place to be in.  Wide roads and beautiful tree laden parks, dotted with seasonal flowering plants makes for pleasant drives. The city traffic in Luyten’s (named after the British architect-Edwin Luyten) Delhi flows free (whatever the situation in other parts of the city). You will certainly catch your breath as you sweep past the North and South block down to India Gate.  The sandstone buildings recahing up to the sky from the rise of a small hill is visually pleasing.  The rising dome of the Rashtrapthi bhavan just below the horizon adds to beauty of the panorama.

If you turn your back to Luyten’s masterpiece, you will be enamoured by the graceful sweep and curving sandstoneIndia Gate facade of the India gate.  To the left and right you will see other sandstone or modern white painted buildings nestling amidst the greenery of the parks that seem to cover most of the landscape. Driving away from Luyten’s Delhi towards Chanakyapuri, the landscape seems greener and formally laid out gardens and greened over patches dividing up the width of the road are pleasing to the eye. Embassies of different countries gracefully line the sides of the broad roads–located at a sufficiently remote distance from the road for security.

Luyten’s Delhi is clean-green. One cannot imagine that one has landed in a third world country where poverty, dirt and filth are the norm. So long as you keep to Luyten’s Delhi and the immediate environs of Central Delhi or even the adjacent parts of South Delhi you can delude yourself into a belief that there is all round progress and India is sufficiently advanced on the path to growth and citizen centric services.  The New Delhi Muncipal Development Corporation ensures that the regions under their control showcase the best of the city to its visitors–at least, I presume that is so.

The roads are named after distinguished individuals or concepts that underlie the spirit of India. There is a Kautilya  (the greatest Administrator of  the Mauryan empire –often compared with Machiavelli) marg (Road), a Panchasheel marg (The path of the five peace principles), a Shanthi Path( the path of peace), a Neethi path (the path of justice) and other named roads that recall the glorious past and present of the country.

The roads themselves are smooth, well maintained and absolutely blemishless. Rains do not flood them and the sun does not melt them. So driving down these roads, one can relax and expect no sudden jerks  that precipitate you to the roof of the car or bring you crashing down to the floor.

However, this should not lull you into complacency. Other parts of Delhi are not so relaxation friendly. We will tell you more about them when we discuss the environs in other posts to follow. For now, I hope you are tingling with anticipation of enjoyment and are eager to know more about the history and sight seeing potential of central Delhi!  Visit this blog daily and we shall gradually introduce you to what you should not miss when in Luyten’s Delhi.

Common Wealth Games: Getting ready…really?

Category : Communication, News and society

With the Common wealth games round the corner, New Delhi and its environs are acquiring a new look. While the process of acquisition is messy, yucky and absolutely inconvinient to the residents of the city, a bouyant sense of patriotism and a common man desire to showcase the country to the world helps them get along with gritted teeth and absolute tolerance. There is also a overwhelming hope that our managers for the games will ensure that some “Juggard” (cooking up) happens and everything will be ready by the time the first visitors enter the city.

What enthuses the crowd is that everyday some commonwealth games venue is being unveiled and inaugurated. It is really immaterial that the roof is cracking and collapsing with the first rain. Many of the inaugurated venues show signs of incompleteness. Our games committee will certainly attend to it all before the deadline. Of course the deadline seems to be a ever receeding dateline that seems to rush to meet the dateline on which the first event is to be held.

I am certain the public is pinning its hopes on the fact that the games management committee is not succumbing to the charges being levelled at them and strikes by workers are being conducted with invisibility!  There is also a lot of talk in the media about how beggars should be shunted out of the city and NGOs are protesting against removal of slums and everyone up and down the management order is being charged with corruption and dishonesty. So, the public sits back and has a comfortable coze on all the things that are happening around them.  It certainly indicates that something is happening–there is no smoke without fire. It is clear that no one is sitting idle.  So the Juggard will happen.

Elsewhere in the world instructions are being issued by Governments to potential visitors to the venue of the Common wealth Games. One interesting cultural observation “Do not touch Indians on first meeting them. They do not like to be touched”. I am sure many Indians who consider themselves highly westernized will find it disconcerting that the visitors to their country are saying “Namaste” with folded hands while they hold out their hands for a shake.  I am also very sure that the auto rickshaw fellows and the general male public who gape at the fair skinned western women or foreigners  who are female will be disappointed to find that strict dress codes are ensuring that visitors come well covered to the country.

So if you are wondering if New Delhi is getting ready for the Common Wealth Games and intone R-e-a-l-l-y with a tone of skepticism, I must point  out to you–India is a land of mysteries. Anything is possible. So relax, stop worrying the Juggard will happen!

Journeys on record: train gains

Category : Creative writing, News and society, Travel content, Types of content, website content

Traveling on the Palace on Wheels in India is an experience that is often recommended to tourists who visit the country. You are given a taste of the luxurious world of the rajahs of yore,  who commandeered every kind of comfort for themselves. Yet one gets a glimpse into the real India only when one travels in other ordinary trains that chug their way through the length and breadth of the country.

Looking out of the window one is awed into silence as the landscape changes with every mile. Mountains, rivers, dry fallow lands, jungles of thorn bushes, small villages that totter on the verge of collapse, cities where the train tracks are considered open toilets, glimpses of towering luxury apartments, silent heritage buildings in the horizon, churches, mosques, wayside temples and what not…. You turn your eyes away from the scene and you would find a dozen  curious eyes fixed on you expectantly–humans who know that they have to share the next 18-36 hours with you and would like to know what makes you tick. They will not hesitate to ask you the most embarrassing personal questions.

The interrogation begins innocuously enough:

Are you a native of x or y? No? Are you going all the way? No? Where will you get off? Why are you going there? Where will you go from there? and so on…

Then would come the next level of questioning. Are you married? How many children? what are they doing? Do you work? Does you spouse work? Do you have in-laws staying with you? How many brothers and sisters you have?  …

Deeper still. Was your’s an arranged marriage? No? Wow, love marriage? Tell me all about it!  You were divorced? Your fault or your spouse’s? …….

Of course, this is interspersed with a lot of information about themselves–it does not matter that you do not ask questions. If they have a right to know about you, you have a right to know about them!!  Logical eh?

While this exercise lasts  for a good two or three hours( –there are generally six passengers per unit and this makes it a fertile ground for investigation), the “confidantes” feed each other with whatever eatables they have brought with them for the journey or buy from the vendors passing to and fro.  Once everyone has been “throughly” introduced to everyone else, matters of general interest are permitted to take over. Someone holds forth on politics; another holds forth on music.  It does not matter that either of these people have nothing to do with the subject in their daily lives and would not dare to speak about it in other forums! Who is to question their authority?  The shaking coaches have shaken their reticence about unknown subjects and they feel that it is ok to pretend authority for the tenure of the journey.  Arguments, contradictions and even categorial assertions on impossibles, are wholly possible. No one cares. It helps bear the tedium of the journey and everything is OK in this confined world. After all, journeys end will diperse the companions and memories are short. Unimportant discussions drain out of the mind as the journey ends and one is free to move forward in life…..

Horrified? If you are pure British you would be. If you are American, you are expected to be friendly. If you are Indian, you are expected to be a bosom companion–irrespective of the fact that you may have lost your roots and are a British Indian or an Indian American. The Desis will have their tools ready to dig into you and turn your out…After all train gains are spiritual experiences that should not be missed…..Indian Railways is an effective platform!

So, if you are planning a trip to India for appreciating India as it lives in the masses or to gain some spiritual insights, take a train journey…. You will not regret it?

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