The tomb is 47 mts tall and is 300 feet wide and is the first Indian building to use the Persian double dome on a high neck drum that measures 42.5 m. The dome is mounted with a 6 mt high brass final crowned by a cresent.  This dome is made of pure white marble while the rest of the building is made of red sandstone in contrast.  The design is symmetrical and simple on the exterior while the interior is complex.  There are eight two storyed vaulted chambers that radiate from a central chamber. The intricate Jaali work or stone lattice work is specatacular.  The actual tomb of the Emperor and his wife lie in an underground chamber directly below the cenotaph and is accessible from a seperate passage.  Surrounding the building is the beautiful Char Bagh Garden or four part garden with a quadrilateral layout. The four squares are further subdivided into smaller squares forming 36 squares in all.  The water channels appear to flow beneath the tomb only to appear on the other side of the building in a straight line.

In the south east corner of the complex lies the Tomb of the first Mughal Emperor of India–Barbar.  This is the only building within the inner walls of the complex and hence it is interpreted to be a building of importance. This tomb is known as the Nai-ka-Gumbad and dates back to 1590-91.  The tomb stands on a raised platform and is square in design.  There are no inscriptions that indicate that it is the tomb of Barbar. However, local legends daub it so and since it stands within the inner walls of the Humayun tomb complex, it could well be so.

There are a number of buildings that dot the pathway leading up to Humayun’s tomb. Most of these buildings are located outside the inner wall.   The Tomb and Mosque of Isa Khan predates Humanyun’s tomb and is the most prominent building in the complex.  It is said to have been constructed in 1547 and is the tomb of  an Afghan noble who graced Sher Shah Suri’s court.  This is an octogonal tomb in an octogonal garden.  It is said to be typical of the monuments of the Sur dynasty.

Other significant buildings in the complex are Bu Halima’s tomb and garden; Afsarwala tomb and mosque; Arab Sarai (rest house for Arabs); Nila Gumbad with a striking blue dome built by Abdul Rahim Khan-i-Khana a courteir of the Mughal Emperor Akbar and the Chillah Nizamuddin Aulia the residence of the saint Nizamuddin Aulia of the 14th Century(typical architecture of the Tugluq dynasty).

If you plan to visit the tombs and do justice to your visit, it will be a good idea to study the  history of the periods represented and learn to distinguish between the different architectural styles that you find in and around the Humayun Tomb complex.   If you are not too hung up on “history” and “architecture” you could visit these tombs to appreciate the sheer beauty of the buildings and the gardens in which they are situated.

While the picture painted by me in the earlier posts is partly true, it is not the whole picture.  New Delhi is a beautiful place to be in.  Wide roads and beautiful tree laden parks, dotted with seasonal flowering plants makes for pleasant drives. The city traffic in Luyten’s (named after the British architect-Edwin Luyten) Delhi flows free (whatever the situation in other parts of the city). You will certainly catch your breath as you sweep past the North and South block down to India Gate.  The sandstone buildings recahing up to the sky from the rise of a small hill is visually pleasing.  The rising dome of the Rashtrapthi bhavan just below the horizon adds to beauty of the panorama.

If you turn your back to Luyten’s masterpiece, you will be enamoured by the graceful sweep and curving sandstone facade of the India gate.  To the left and right you will see other sandstone or modern white painted buildings nestling amidst the greenery of the parks that seem to cover most of the landscape. Driving away from Luyten’s Delhi towards Chanakyapuri, the landscape seems greener and formally laid out gardens and greened over patches dividing up the width of the road are pleasing to the eye. Embassies of different countries gracefully line the sides of the broad roads–located at a sufficiently remote distance from the road for security.

Luyten’s Delhi is clean-green. One cannot imagine that one has landed in a third world country where poverty, dirt and filth are the norm. So long as you keep to Luyten’s Delhi and the immediate environs of Central Delhi or even the adjacent parts of South Delhi you can delude yourself into a belief that there is all round progress and India is sufficiently advanced on the path to growth and citizen centric services.  The New Delhi Muncipal Development Corporation ensures that the regions under their control showcase the best of the city to its visitors–at least, I presume that is so.

The roads are named after distinguished individuals or concepts that underlie the spirit of India. There is a Kautilya  (the greatest Administrator of  the Mauryan empire –often compared with Machiavelli) marg (Road), a Panchasheel marg (The path of the five peace principles), a Shanthi Path( the path of peace), a Neethi path (the path of justice) and other named roads that recall the glorious past and present of the country.

The roads themselves are smooth, well maintained and absolutely blemishless. Rains do not flood them and the sun does not melt them. So driving down these roads, one can relax and expect no sudden jerks  that precipitate you to the roof of the car or bring you crashing down to the floor.

However, this should not lull you into complacency. Other parts of Delhi are not so relaxation friendly. We will tell you more about them when we discuss the environs in other posts to follow. For now, I hope you are tingling with anticipation of enjoyment and are eager to know more about the history and sight seeing potential of central Delhi!  Visit this blog daily and we shall gradually introduce you to what you should not miss when in Luyten’s Delhi.

The pyramids of Egypt were constructed by the 3^rd to the 6th Dynasties. They lie scattered along the western side of Nile stretching to the south of the apex of the Delta.

The pyramids, today, stand isolated against the backdrop of the Egyptian deserts. At the time of their construction, these pyramids were part of a complex of buildings that were surrounded by a walled enclosure.  The temple was normally located on the east of the pyramid and was dedicated to the worship of the dead.  There was also a raised and enclosed causeway on this side, leading to the western edge of the cultivation. Near this was the ‘Valley Building’ in which the embalmment of the bodies was carried out and interment rites performed.  A canal connected the ‘Valley building’ to the Nile.

The ancient Egyptians designed shape of the pyramid to represent the primordial mound from which the earth was created. The shape is also believed to represent the descending rays of the sun. The names of the pyramids also referred to solar luminescence.  They were highly polished to reflect the rays of the sun and give them a brilliant appearance. One of the narrow shafts from the burial chamber within the pyramid extends to the centre of the pyramid that point to the sky suggesting that the pyramid was conceived of as a means of magically launching the deceased pharaoh’s soul into the abode of the gods.  The West (the side on which the pyramids are built) also has mythological associations with the land of the dead.

The early pyramids were architecturally similar to Mastabas.  The step pyramid of Pharaoh Zoser at Sakkara is an example of the intermediary stage of evolution of the pyramid from mastabas. One of the pyramids at Meydum and two at Dahshur by Seneferu(bent pyramid) can also be cited as examples of the evolving architecture of the pyramids. The finest examples of true pyramid architecture can be seen in the famous three pyramids of Giza built by the fourth dynasty successors of Seneferu.

The construction of pyramids involved a lot of labor and materials. Each pyramid was a lifetime project of the Pharaoh.  The pyramids were built on living rocks which were first levelled and built upon.  The limestone rocks, of which the pyramids were built, were brought from the quarries.  The outer face of the pyramid was built with limestone quarried locally, while the inner face was built with limestone from Tura (on the eastern side of Nile). Some amount of granite has been used for linings of the chambers and passages.  This granite was brought from Aswan.  The tomb chambers and their approaches were cut into the rock below or were constructed in the core of the pyramid.  The entrances to the pyramid were normally in the northern side of the pyramid. The sides of the pyramid were scrupulously oriented with cardinal points.

The structure of the pyramid involved building a series of concentric sloping slices or layers around a steep pyramidical core. During construction the pyramid appeared to be a mass of step like tiers that were later filled in to give it the finished smooth steep look with its specific angle of inclination. The steps were filled in with packing blocks and brought with finely finished facings.  The finishing was done from top to the bottom and the apex stone was sometimes gilded.

Interestingly, the Egyptian construction tools were very primitive.   They had no knowledge of the pulley and their principal tool for raising the stone blocks was the lever.  Wooden sledges with or without wheels were used to transport the blocks to the construction site. Broad topped, sloping sand ramps reinforced with crude brick walls were built on the pyramid and the blocks were dragged up these ramps of sand and bricks.

There are as many as hundred pyramids scattered along the western side of the Nile. Many of them have been rifled and pilfered in the chaos that followed the 6^th dynasty.  They have also been the target for tomb robbers over the years. A few pyramids have been well preserved and are great tourist attractions today.

A two day visit with one night stay at Kurukshetra is recommended.  Popular hotels for overnight stay at Kurukshetra are: Saffron, Heritage, Neelkanth Yatri Niwas and Parakeet hotel. There are also a number of guest houses and Dharmashalas that accomodate travelers to this historic city.

Places of Tourist Interest

Sheikh Chehli’s Tomb is a beautiful tomb constructed by Dara Shikoh(1650 AD), the eldest son of Shah Jahan the Moghul Emperor, for the sufi saint Abd-ur-rahim or Sheikh Chehli. The tomb is constructed over an artificial terrance and is octogonal with a south facing entrance. It is built of buff sandstone and crowned by a pear shaped dome of marble with a high circular drum.  A smaller tomb with beautiful floral carvings dedicated to the wife of Sheikh Chehli can be found near the west entrance.  The whole overlooks a Madrasa which has a nine arched opening on each side of the central courtyard. It has been declared a monument of National importance.

The Kurukshetra Panorama and Science center is located near the Sri Krishna Museum in Kurukshetra. It is a two storeyed building that exhibits Indian heritage science and technology. Ancient Indian concepts of properties of matter, structure of the atom, geometry, mathematical rules, astronomy, medicine and surgery are on display.  The highlight of the museum is the life like panorama of the historical battle of Kurukshetra with 34 feet high paintings of the episodes from the war between the Pandavas and Kauravas.  The sound and light that accompany the scene along with the background Gita Chanting create an illusion of reality. A science park has been set up in the grounds with busts of all the greatest scientists of India.

The Krishna museum exhibits the collection of archelogical material from 5000 years of Indian History. Effort has been made to sequence the material culture from the Kurukshetra war pre epic, epic and post epic periods. There is no effort to establish the historicity of the war, only to display the archeological findings pertaining to the different periods. The museum has six galleries and a rich heritage of art and sculpture is housed in these galleries. A whole day can be spent examining these exquisite pieces of history and art!

Kalpana Chawla Memorial Planetarium was built to impart non formal education in Astronomy. A number of excellent programs with high tech digital and optomechanical systems are conducted in this building.  Science and technology exhibits, astronomy shows and the astro park are highlights of this spot.

Gulzarilal Nanda Institute of National Integration and Peace is a personalia museum built in honor of the erstwhile Governor of the State who did much to improve and preserve the historical and places of tourist importance in Kurukshetra.  The musuem highlights his career, spiritual beliefs and his services for Kurukshetra.

Brahmasarovar is a beautiful tank with a temple dedicated to Shiva in the center of the tank. This spot is believed to be the location at which Brahma begins his act of creation after the great Pralaya that destroys the world. A number of bathing ghats named after the characters of the Mahabarath can be found round this tank.  The waters of this tank are considered sacred and pilgrims visit this tank in large numbers during the Solar eclipse and on New moon day to take a dip in the holy waters.

The Sannihit Sarovar in Kurukshetra is said to be the confluence of seven sacred saraswatis. A large number of pilgrims visit this tank on New Moon day to absolve themselves of sins.  Adjacent to this tank are the temples dedicated to Dhruv Narain, Lord Vishnu, Laxmi Narayan, Lord Hanuman and Mother Goddess Durga.

Places of Historical Importance

Kurukshetra is replete with history.  The site has been the cradle of Indian civilization for more than 5000 years. A number of archelogical sites have been excavated and the findings from these sites are housed in the different museums located across the city including the Krishna museum.

The Archeological site museum and Harsha’s Palace are located behind the Tomb of Sheikh Chehli. The museum houses the archeological findings at the excavation site of the Palace of Harsha, the King of Thanesar.  The Archeological Survey of India has unearthed from the mound, stone and terracotta sculptures, coins, ornaments, ritualistic objects. The exhibition also has on display the schematic plan and its findings and architectural buildings that have been exposed during the excavation.  The mound itself is located close to the  museum and the contours of the palace are very visible. The settlement pattern, the architectural style, religious life and artistic endeavor are visible to tourists.

Jyotisar is the most revered historical location in Kurukshetra. It is believed that Krishna elucidated the Gita to Arjuna at this spot. While the historical truth of this assertion is not proved, tradition has it that the message was delivered under a holy banyan tree at this spot. Jyotisar lies 5 km from Kurukshetra on the Kurushetra Peshowa road.  The banyan currently found on the spot is said to be an offshoot of the original banyan that existed at the time of the discourse. The site has a beautiful marble statue of Krishna and Arjuna on a chariot.  A sound and light show on the theme of Bhagawat Gita is mounted by the ITDC as part of the tourist promotion of Kurushetra here.

Close to Jyotisar, infact at the entrance to the location, stands an ancient Shiva temple between the trunks of two trees. The temple is said to date back to the Kurushetra war.

Temples in Kurukshetra

The Staneshwar Mahadev temple is a temple dedicated to Lord Shiva, the Hindu God of destruction. It is said that the Pandavas visited this temple before the battle of Mahabarat to receive the blessings of Lord Shiva. The waters of the tank adjoining the temple is said to have cured Kind “Ben” of leprosy.  A pilgrimage to Kurukshetra is complete only when the pilgrim takes a holy dip in this tank.   The temple is constructed in the regional style and has a domical roof and the facade of this dome has the shape of an “amla” or gooseberry with a tall pinacle.  The sanctum sanctorum houses a Lingam in the traditional style.

The Bhadrakali temple is a temple dedicated to Shakti, the consort of Lord Shiva. It is one of the fifty one Shaki peetas or seat of power of the Goddess.  The right ankle of Shakti is idolized in this temple.  A large number of devotees congregate in this temple to worship the Godress. Local legend has it that Krishna and Balarama had their “Mundan” ceremony or the removal of first growth of hair was conducted in this temple. It is also believed that the Pandavas visited this temple to pray to the Goddess for victory in the Kurukshetra war.  Worshippers offer terracotta horses to the diety when their prayers are answered by the Goddess.

The Kalmaki temple is also dedicated to Bhadrakali. This temple is associated with Tantricism and is said to have existed even in the sixth and seventh centuries AD at the current location.  The style of the temple, however, is 19th century.  The brickwork is in Lakhori style and is double storied. The style of the sanctum santrum is offbeat with the sanctum juxtapositioned to form a single structure bearing a composite domical and vaulted roof styles.  Four domical spires are located around the central domical spise.  The entrance to the temple has a vaulted alcove design.  Beautiful murals decorate the sanctum interior and the octogonal wall below the inner dome and square chamber of the sanctum.

Bhishma Kund or Narkatari tank is located about a mile and half from Thanesar on Kurushetra Pehowa road. The legend says that Bhishma, the elder of the Pandava and Kuru clan gave up his life voluntarily at this spot. It is believed that the waters of the tank were summoned forth by Arjuna to quench the thirst of Bhishma. There is a temple dedicated to Bhishma on this spot adjacent to the tank.

If you have liked this post, please do leave your comments. If you are looking for similar kind of content, please visit my website http://www.consult4content.com and leave me an order for content.

Looking out of the window one is awed into silence as the landscape changes with every mile. Mountains, rivers, dry fallow lands, jungles of thorn bushes, small villages that totter on the verge of collapse, cities where the train tracks are considered open toilets, glimpses of towering luxury apartments, silent heritage buildings in the horizon, churches, mosques, wayside temples and what not…. You turn your eyes away from the scene and you would find a dozen  curious eyes fixed on you expectantly–humans who know that they have to share the next 18-36 hours with you and would like to know what makes you tick. They will not hesitate to ask you the most embarrassing personal questions.

The interrogation begins innocuously enough:

Are you a native of x or y? No? Are you going all the way? No? Where will you get off? Why are you going there? Where will you go from there? and so on…

Then would come the next level of questioning. Are you married? How many children? what are they doing? Do you work? Does you spouse work? Do you have in-laws staying with you? How many brothers and sisters you have?  …

Deeper still. Was your’s an arranged marriage? No? Wow, love marriage? Tell me all about it!  You were divorced? Your fault or your spouse’s? …….

Of course, this is interspersed with a lot of information about themselves–it does not matter that you do not ask questions. If they have a right to know about you, you have a right to know about them!!  Logical eh?

While this exercise lasts  for a good two or three hours( –there are generally six passengers per unit and this makes it a fertile ground for investigation), the “confidantes” feed each other with whatever eatables they have brought with them for the journey or buy from the vendors passing to and fro.  Once everyone has been “throughly” introduced to everyone else, matters of general interest are permitted to take over. Someone holds forth on politics; another holds forth on music.  It does not matter that either of these people have nothing to do with the subject in their daily lives and would not dare to speak about it in other forums! Who is to question their authority?  The shaking coaches have shaken their reticence about unknown subjects and they feel that it is ok to pretend authority for the tenure of the journey.  Arguments, contradictions and even categorial assertions on impossibles, are wholly possible. No one cares. It helps bear the tedium of the journey and everything is OK in this confined world. After all, journeys end will diperse the companions and memories are short. Unimportant discussions drain out of the mind as the journey ends and one is free to move forward in life…..

Horrified? If you are pure British you would be. If you are American, you are expected to be friendly. If you are Indian, you are expected to be a bosom companion–irrespective of the fact that you may have lost your roots and are a British Indian or an Indian American. The Desis will have their tools ready to dig into you and turn your out…After all train gains are spiritual experiences that should not be missed…..Indian Railways is an effective platform!

So, if you are planning a trip to India for appreciating India as it lives in the masses or to gain some spiritual insights, take a train journey…. You will not regret it?

I am sure that it is not because everyone agrees with everything I say!

So, here is my New Year Wish and I hope it will be fulfilled: I pray that my visitors will leave their comments and initiate active discussion (hotter the better!) on the blog posts!

Wow! getting that off my chest feels real nice. I so wish the new year will continue on this note of hope.

Getting back on track with the topic “Journeys on Record”,  here is an account of my journey into the historic city of Jaipur.   I have been in the North of India for six years now and had not set foot out of New Delhi to visit the beautiful cities of Rajasthan. I was persuaded to rectify the error of my ways this Christmas.  I set out to visit the wonderful Pink city of Jaipur, take a detour to Ajmer to visit the shire of Salim Chisti and also the ancient temple dedicated to the Hindu Creator Bhrama at Pushkar. Now, back home, I am trying to put together information that will interest my readers and persuade them to consider making a tour of the places that I visited. After all, travel content is a method of persuading the audience and making them patronize the tours that others have enjoyed?  So here goes!

Jaipur is about five hours leisurely drive  by road from New Delhi. We started at around One P.M and reached Jaipur at 6 P.M precisely.  After a quick refreshing wash at the Guest house we were booked into, we proceeded to visit Chok ke dani. Chok ke dani is a cultural village that showcases the cultural mores of Rajasthan. Model houses of Rajasthan, the food of the people, the dress of the region, the music and dance, the snake charmers, the magicians and the elephants and the camels dominate the scene. We spent wonderful four hours, roaming around and immersing ourselves into the mood and rhythm of the state.

The next day we started our journey back into the past.  Our first steps led us to the historic Amber Fort. This fort was constructed by Man Singh I and II and it is a sprawling complex with many secret tunnels and escape routes. It is build over a number of adjoining hills and is truly awesome.  We spent a good three hours walking around the fort and exploring every nook and corner. The most beautiful building in the fort was the sheesh mahal. The highlight of the fort was the elephant ride. There were several tens of elephants carrying tourists round the fort.  The scene was very picturesque to say the least!

Our footsteps next led us to the Jaigard fort which is actually linked to the Amber fort by a secret tunnel. This fort is much smaller, but extremely beautiful. The view from the different towers and walls are breath taking. The different army inspection courtyards and the inner chambers are artistic but not very exciting.  The huge canon at the top of the fort was a tourist attraction.

We then moved on to see the Jal Mahal, Hava mahal, the Jantar mantar and the other sights in Jaipur. The Jal Mahal has to be viewed from the road as it is out of bound for tourists.   As we were running out of time and most of the other places close between 4 and 5 p.m,  we had to rush through them.

We had excellent food during the day at LMB restruant. This is a fairly clean vegetarian restruant that provides standard Punjabi and Rajasthani food to its patrons. The food was tasty and not too oily. The service was excellent.

The next day we proceeded to Ajmer and Pushkar.  Unusual rains marred our day. The narrow streets leading up to the Dargah of Salim Chisti were wet and slimy and we had to walk almost for a km or two to reach it. We were also harungued by beggars on the way and harrassed by persons who would have us perform a number of rituals at the Dargah for our “greater good”.  After navigating our way through the streets and avoiding all overtures we managed to visit the shrine and return intact. Not a very happy experience.

Pushkar was a good one hour drive from Ajmer and the rains again played spoilsport. We also arrived with just a few minutes before closing time. Handbags and mobiles were not permitted in the shrine and we were forced to sacrifice the pleasure of one of our members for the “greater good” of the group. So, we all visited the shrine while the chosen “sacrifice” stood below holding our bags and mobiles. The visit however, was not pleasurable. Slippery mud that caked the marble stairs leading to the shrine made walking hazardous. The narrow passage leading up to the shiva sanctum was dark and extremely crowded. We navigated our way, fearful that a stampede might break out any moment. However, we returned whole.

After lunch we decided to visit the holy sorovar(lake) at Pushkar. Well, not much can be said about it. The lake itself had dried up and there was a small collection of stagnant water that was stored in a small storage area at the bottom of the steps leading up to the lake. We were not tempted to wet our feet or rid ourselves of our sins by stepping into the water.

Since we had a 8 hour drive back to New Delhi, we decided to leave immediately. It was 3 P.M.  We reached Delhi at 11 P.M with a short break of 20 minutes for tea and snacks.